Sept. 9, 2008. Chaotic transition onto the ice.

We ascended for 8 long hours to 4660 meters. There was a very tiresome ascent of the terminal and then lateral moraine. The glacier appears to be retreating and the ablation zone was long (miles long) and complex. The first picture shows T., our local Lahauli guide, with portions of the snout of the glacier behind him. There really is no single terminus, more of a morass of pools, debris piles and exposed ice mini-walls. We first crossed over what might be termed the lower toe of the glacier, and then ascended loose rocky hillsides on the looker's left of the glacier. After a long time paralleling the glacier on rocky and grassy slopes, we had a dangerous descent back to the glacier. L. had a bad wrist that prevented full balancing use of one arm, and as a consequence she really banged a shin.

Today's track really exemplified one of the more remarkable aspects of this trek: the need to constantly pay attention. A turned ankle or dinged knee could have had really unpleasant consequences. Therefore, constant visual and mental focus was required. See L.'s general demeanor in this photo. I remember at one point wondering what would happen if I relaxed for a step or two. Sometime later (maybe days later) I tried this and promptly tripped and stumbled. Certainly there were portions of the trek with trails, tracks, or easy going, but by and large the footing was tricky. Many of the boulderfields gave the impression of virgin rock, with random movement from small or large stones at unexpected intervals. Those with strong ankles and good balance had an advantage.

After gaining real white ice, we ascended about 90 minutes on the glacier proper to camp. As usual, when I first spotted the tents I thought they were impossibly far away and that I would never get to them. At least it was easier going just trudging up to the horizon. Tonight we are camping on snow/ice and I have a single wall tent. It is cold as s)(*% and the tent stakes do not want to hold. However it is really beautiful and weather is good. I feel tolerable. Last night I had a nightmare in Hindi, was "stuck" in the langauge and and after this could not get back to sleep!