Sept. 21, 2008. Scenic Markha descent to Skiu.

Having faced the fact that we would not, in fact, be finishing over two more 5000 meter passes, we got down to business and dropped about 20 miles through the beautiful, cultivated, historic Markha valley today. I had been this way, uphill, in 2006, taking perhaps 4 days to slowly climb (for acclimitization) the route we followed today in the opposite direction. It was impossible to get lost and I, for one, really relaxed today and just enjoyed the walking and the scenery. I got a good night's sleep, making up for some sleep debt, and aside from some dry-skin cuts on my fingers and a persistent lip sunburn, feel great.

We passed many stupas and an interesting shrine composed of red-dyed sheep horns near a prominant rock outcropping. The weather improved, but the high mountains on either side of the valley were definitely covered in fresh snow. Up-valley, the gleaming mass of Kang Yatze (6400 meters) shone in the distance. There were a few river crossing and even civilized bridges but nothing very tough. We had a late lunch at a parachute cafe and arrived at camp about 5 PM. Once again there was a parachute cafe and a real privy. In a natural reaction to the previous evening, things were kind of subdued in the dining tent. We all knew this was the last night camping and I think we felt a little anticipatory sadness that the trek would be ending the next day. There are actually electric wires of some sort coming up to Skiu.

L.C. took off in the morning on his riding horse to arrange for our new pickup. His plan was to leave the horse on our side of the Zanskar, cross at Chilling, hitch a ride to Leh and hire some vehicles. Joel also sent a text on the satellite phone. We will see tomorrow how it all pans out. (Note: perfectly). Tonight we said goodbye to our horsemen, with a little Hindi speech and tips. They will be accompanying us to Skiu to drop off the gear, but will then turn around, ascend the Markha valley, cross Nimaling (we think) to the Leh-Manali highway and walk to Manali. I believe they will be paid for the project time for this trip on a per-day basis.